“阻塞”是行业术语，指的是家庭下水道（就是我！）称“下水道”，这是用于制造服装的基本样式。例如，如果我进行了十亿次测量，并制作了Allie尺寸的紧身胸衣，那我就可以对该胸衣进行很多设计更改（增加轻松度，旋转飞镖，移动领口等），它看起来会完全不同，但是仍然适合我。虽然我 希望 everyone used Allie-shaped slopers, most professional pattern companies use a standard block made to fit industry-standard measurements (although 一些 do their own thing, i.e. Sewaholic's block is pear-shaped, SBCC's block is petite, etc.).
What does this have to do with Colette? Well, it has been rumored that the 旧 Colette block was not based on an industry-standard figure, but was in fact 撒莱尺寸，旨在适合创始人。自然，如果我有一家图案公司，我也希望这些图案也适合我！现在，考虑一下您必须对标准尺寸的图案进行的所有更改，以使其适合您的单个非标准车身。也许您必须抬起腰部，进行FBA，调整窄肩，调整平屁股...您才明白。如果您知道自己是在标准块上工作，则可能需要进行某些调整。另一方面， 如果制版师不清楚其块，则您将无法知道将要或不需要进行的调整。以Sewaholic（梨形块）和Simplicity（行业标准块）为例，我知道在制作Simplicity模式时，我通常必须在臀部上进行分级，甚至可能要进行小小的胸围调整（SBA）。因为Sewaholic告诉您它们的图案是针对梨形图形的（例如我的），所以我知道我不必进行这些调整-它们是内置的！这些都不是坏事，因为我知道图案的形状并且知道我的身体，并且我可以帮助这两件事排成一行。如果该方程式的一半丢失了，并且模式所基于的块并不清楚，那么您将无法通过大量的试验和错误来使模式与您的身体对齐。对于初学者来说，反复试验很难， 特别是如果他们购买的缝纫图案被誉为“教学图案”，但没有为他们提供适当的工具.
回到索贝托！我对新的Sorbetto感到非常好奇，因为尽管他们谈论了很多有关更换挡块的事情，但是他们并没有对适合它的设计者说太多！ （这是 科莱特关于他们新街区的帖子 and the process they have been using to improve it.) Industry standard, or...? Let's find out! In the interest of science, I made two Sorbettos--one version of 旧 Sorbetto, and one version of new Sorbetto, v.1, which is the version with identical style lines. Looking at the 旧 and new size charts, you can see that the body measurements are identical through size 16, and put me in a size 2 for the bust, a 4 in the waist, and a 6 for the hips in both patterns. In the interests of science, I didn't do any pattern adjustments in either pattern besides grading between sizes, but by looking at the complete garment measurements I could tell there would be noticeable differences in fit, even before I started 缝制! The new Sorbetto is has 1 7/8" more ease in the bust and 2 1/8" more ease in the hips, in addition to being 3/8" longer than the original. For reference, here's the 旧 size chart:
新索贝托： Woah, what a difference! It seems to me that Colette heard the complaints (the bust darts are always too high! the armscyes are always too tight!) and waayyy overcompensated in the opposite direction. While the bust darts on the 旧 version are too high, by about 1/2", the new bust darts are almost 2" too low. In addition to being too low, the bust darts are much larger than the original, and so the bust is huge on me; although the shoulders/upper bust fit me nicely, from the bust down I am swimming in this pattern. (That additional ease reflected in the finished garment charts is accurate.) I know I am not busty, and most indie pattern companies draft for a larger bust than mine (say, a C cup) but there's room for like 87 more cup sizes or a small infant inside this 最佳. (If my middle school 希望es ever come true and my boobs grow like 10 sizes overnight, I know which 最佳 I can turn to.) 我发现武器包也太庞大了，无法满足我的口味。此外，旧样式的拔模错误已得到解决，但新的样式已经出现：缝制飞镖会使您的图案侧面有一个严重的角度，就像在绘制飞镖后未缝制侧缝一样。由于背面接缝是笔直的，因此将正面和背面接缝缝合在一起非常棘手-这是我在初学者起草项目中会遇到的一个错误，但是在Colette这样的大公司却没有。我不会再做这个了。
I honestly went into this experiment expecting the 旧 Sorbetto to be really ill-fitting and the new one to be much improved, but unfortunately, I found the opposite to be true. While the original certainly has 一些 drafting errors and shortcomings, for me, the 旧 Sorbetto would be a perfectly reasonable tank 最佳 after a few small adjustments. The new Sorbetto, on the other hand, does not work for me at all and would need to be totally overhauled for me to feel confident about its fit. Although it is a free pattern, I'd rather pay the $10-ish for 更好的坦克模式。虽然我没有缝制， 廖拉 我的钱看起来很可爱，后背褶皱设计很甜美，用户提交了 例子 Indiesew上的所有配件看起来都很合适。
Have you made the 旧 or new Sorbetto--or both? Do you have a favorite tank pattern? I'm in the market! ;)
ps： the 旧 version of the Sorbetto appears to have been scrubbed from the site. i had a copy ages ago (as I mentioned already) but the PDF was on an 旧 computer, so thanks so much to Indu from 万花筒 for coming through with an 旧 copy in a pinch!